Day 1: Vienna – Bratislava
On Tuesday my husband and I started our tour from Vienna, since we live near Vienna. We combined the first and second cycling days and went straigt to Bratislava. We picked up our bikes extra from Rad + Reisen. Normally the bike pick up is Sundays and Mondays only. The bikes were set up for our heights and the travel documents are in one handelbar bag. Inside it we find the hotel list and vouchers for the ferry that we will take on Saturday to Budapest.
We are all set and make our way towards the Danube to follow the marked cycle path along the river. We pass many cyclist rest stops that are already open for the season. When we got to an intersection we are told by other cyclists that we went too far and that the turn for Bratislava was back at the yellow pedestrian bridge. It was nice to have made contact with other cyclists and that they helped us and others as well. Back on track, we leave the view of the Danube and continue going through the nature Preserve of the Lobau. Then we stop at the point of interest from the app "Radlertreff" because we saw that there were many people there. We fuel up with Kaesekreainers, drinks and continue on cycling through the Lobau to the the sound of birds. I spot a graceful white Crane in the marshes covered with yellow sea roses. In Hainburg we make a stop at the river park and then explore the old historic town. Then the route continues to the town of Wolfsthal which is near the border with Slovakia. We pass the border without any border control and continue towards Bratislava. The suburbs of Bratislava loom from the landscape with its tall buildings in the distance. Soon we are able to see the castle from afar. With our goal in sight we quickly arrive to the main bridge in Bratislava with its iconic UFO shaped observatory tower.
We have arrived! In the old town it is a pedestrian zone and we push our bikes to arrive to our hotel the AC Marriott. This evening we have a nice time exploring Bratislava and go to eat at the restaurant Teremtete. They have seating in a courtyard outside and have the best cucumber lemonade and food. It was a fast and pleasant ride for us that we really enjoyed!
Day 2: Bratislava – Győr
After a great breakfast we leave the AC Marriott hotel. In the old town we have to push our bikes until we get near the bridge, to resume on the bike path to Györ. Along the way we stop by a pick your own strawberry patch and I was able to pick us some delicious strawberries. This stop was actually not on our schedule but we just could not resist to stop there. For lunch we stop in Mosonmagyarovar. We are not hungry, but I would recommend making a stop there for lunch.
Instead of taking the train for the next section, we continue to Györ by bike. The bike path runs parallel to the country road. It is beautiful to see the purple poppy fields. From the border with Hungary the bike paths were more bumpy and older. When we arrive in Györ we are surprised about how tidy and nice the city is. Our hotel was a former monastery, called Hotel Klostrom. That is amazing. Dinner is at a restaurant across the street. We booked half board, but I would not get it next time because it is too much food (starter soup with meat usually, main meal, and a hearty dessert). We can choose from 4-5 menue options and there is also a vegeterian option. After we take a "Verdauungsspaziergang".
Day 3: Györ – Komarno
After a great breakfast in Hotel Klostrom, we leave Györ. We find our way out using the app. A 5 minute ride was on a country road and the rest was on a newly built bike path. I like the vast fields on the side of the path. The path runs parallel to a country road. Half way through it is great because the path leads away from the road and more through newly planted fields. Around noon we find a bike stop about 300m away from the path. It is unique with farm animals. We make photos of the the chickens, pig, and shepard dog. They serve local ice cream, langos, and fish. The langos is amazingly good. We talk to an austrian man that lives nearby at the rest stop. It was nice hearing a joke and talking to him. After a quick phone call to our families we continue along to Komarno. We visit the Monostori Erod. After we continue biking and then check the app and it shows that we went off the path and should have gone around the Erod. The Euro Velo 6 sign showed a bit different route then the one we were following.
On the other side of the river is Komarno. After checking into the hotel Europa, we stay in the room to relax and in the evening go out to explore this beautiful city We are impressed by how clean it is and how the downtown is only a pedestrian area. We get some ice cream and go to a mass. It was beautiful to hear it in Slovakian. We had booked dinner and it was nice that we could go any time before 9pm at this hotel. To recap this was the most relaxing day and we had plenty of time to explore the city afterwards.
Day 4: Komarno – Esztergom
At breakfast we meet 3 other couples of cyclists that are doing the same tour. (One from Canada and one from Australia) We leave Hotel Europa through the old town of Komarno. Instead of turning on a bridge right, we continue along the river Vaag, enjoying the stunning poppy fields and nature, only to realize 15km later that we are going in the wrong direction. 45 minutes later we are back in Komarno, where we started. It would have been better had we used the voice navigation and checked the app. Our motivation is still strong and we make a stop at the restaurant Mlyn Malom and have delicious Danube caught fish. It is well earned!
A highlight was the storks nests on top of the light poles. We arrive in the Slovakian town of Sturovo and cross the bridge to the Hungarian town of Esztergom and find our hotel. Our hotel Adelbert is near the famous Basilica. We get there by pushing our bikes but you can also get from the bridge by using smaller side roads, to avoid riding on busier roads. We have dinner reserved at a restaurant nearby at Gatto Rosso. The Italien restaurant has a nice courtyard and offers a nice ambience. Overall, Eszetergom is a town I had only heared of before at work, that now has left a lasting impression with its majestic basilica.
Day 5: Esztergom – Budapest
We leave the hotel Szent Adelbert and first visit the basilica by foot, since it is near our hotel. The basilica is 100% worth seeing, up close from the ouside and from the inside. When we got our bikes it is allready 11am. The bike path leads close along the Danube today. When we enter Hungary again there are some stretches where we cycle on country roads that have low traffic. Villages pass us by, with their old and new houses with large gardens (grape vines, tomatoes, etc.). The path has many places that you can stop to take a break and get something to eat. Today is the busiest day, because it is a Saturday and we are closer to Budapest. The local people are enjoying their time outdoors by sunbathing on the shores of the Danube, biking, attending carnivals that we passed on the way, and living the life.
We stopped half way through at a grill restaurant called Molo Fabelozo. They serve Danube fish and chips and burgers. I order the biggest burger I ever tried on their terrace with a view of the Danube beach and would recommend this place. Since we left late this morning we did not reach the ship ride on time that would have taken us from Szetendre to Budapest. We bike the extra 20 km to our hotel. It was a bit demotivating to have missed it, but we are proud to have done the whole way to Budapest without a single ship or train ride.
As the city center of Budapest nears, you go along a promenade with numerous beach bars, cafes, and people. We find our way to our Mercure Ibis Castle Hill hotel. Dinner is in the hotel and is great as always. In the restaurant we greet our cyclist couple from Australia. Overal todays ride is varied, goes mostly along the Danube river, and has a lot of people that you will see along the way. My favorite must see in Budapest is the Fischermans Bastion on Castle Hill.
Conclusion
It was a great to experience 3 different countries and cultures. All the hotels and their breakfasts (as well as dinners in our case) were nice. I would definetely recommend this tour to people that already do some cycling or other sports for leisure and enjoy hearing many languages and seeing historical cities along the way.
Cought your interest? Here you find the whole tour: Vienna to Budapest / 3-Country Tour
