Around the Salzkammergut with Marijana

Day 1: Arrival in Salzburg

After dropping off our luggage early at the hotel, we parked our car at the Linzergasse Garage and set off on foot to explore Salzburg’s Old Town. Our highlight of the day was the panoramic view from Mönchsberg – a breathtaking glimpse of Salzburg framed by fleeting sunshine before the skies turned to rain. We found shelter in the catacombs, which offered a quiet refuge and a stunning view over the church and graveyard – well worth the €2 admission.

Marin grabbed a Bosna hotdog from a nearby fast food stand nestled in some greenery near the stairs leading to Mirabell Palace – a peaceful little moment in the middle of the city. We wrapped up the day with dinner at the Mercure Hotel Salzburg. The pork chops, vegetable patties, and Apfelstrudel with vanilla sauce were all delicious.

 

Day 2: Salzburg – Bad Goisern

Today was the longest cycling stretch of our trip, with intermittent rain and occasional sunshine. The scenic variety was stunning – traditional Austrian homes with flower-filled windowsills, cows grazing lazily in the fields, and the majestic Dachstein mountains looming in the distance.

We stopped by the lakeside at Mondsee for a quick lunch of dried fish from a cyclist-friendly roadside stand. From St. Gilgen, we took a relaxing 45-minute ferry ride to St. Wolfgang, a break that was part of our tour package.

As we rode along the Traun River bike paths through Bad Ischl and into Bad Goisern, we were surrounded by lush greenery. For dinner, we discovered a delightful Syrian-Salzkammergut fusion restaurant with incredibly good food – so good I only remembered to take photos after I’d already started eating. 🤭

 

Day 3: Bad Goisern – Altmünster

Rain followed us all the way to Hallstatt. Despite the weather, cycling along the Traun River shoreline was beautiful. The uphill stretch toward Hallstatt was a workout, even with e-bikes.

We opted for the boat ride from the train station across the lake into Hallstatt and met a lovely couple doing the same tour. We ran into them again later at a pastry shop and ended up joining them. Although my shoes were soaked and it was still cold and rainy, the charm of Hallstatt kept our spirits high.

Initially, we thought about taking the train to Traun Lake but were encouraged by the couple to continue cycling around the lake – and it was absolutely worth it. Once the sun broke through, the view of Hallstatt from the eastern shore, with its traditional houses and the Dachstein backdrop, was unforgettable.

We returned via Bad Goisern and Bad Ischl, stopping to wait out a heavy downpour at a small train station near Traunkirchen. Marin grabbed an Ischler cake – a chocolate-covered almond pastry that I highly recommend. We reached Altmünster and checked into the Panorama Hotel Traunstein, beautifully located on the town’s edge. Dinner at Auszeit Café/Bar Restaurant was the best of the trip so far – a perfect reward for the long ride.

 

Day 4: Altmünster – Mondsee

A delicious, freshly prepared breakfast at the family-run hotel got us started. We visited Schloss Ort, a lakeside castle famous from an Austrian TV series. Wandering its grounds offered a different perspective on the lake.

We then cycled back through Toscana Park’s peaceful fields. Although I didn’t enjoy the traffic-heavy road through Gmunden, the steep climbs that followed were made manageable with our e-bikes. Attersee Lake took our breath away – its turquoise waters reminded us of the Adriatic Sea. In Seewalchen, I found a painted “traveling rock” with a message – I plan to hide it somewhere new for the next person to find.

We took a short detour from the red route to visit Attersee am Attersee, where we devoured a roadside half-chicken each – the perfect fuel for the final stretch to Mondsee. Hotel Krone welcomed us with its central location and a much-needed sauna. We were happy to run into the friendly couple from Hallstatt again, and the sunny weather all day made the journey even better.

 

Day 5: Mondsee – Salzburg

Our final leg included visits to four more lakes. With sunshine by the afternoon, the ride was warm and pleasant. After a hearty breakfast and farewells to the other couple, we climbed to the top of the Schlossberg in Mattsee. The short hike rewarded us with sweeping views and a glimpse of the cleanest, warmest lake in the Salzburg area.

Past Mattsee, the landscape was dotted with cows and sheep. We took a break at a charming self-service farm stand and enjoyed fresh raw Salzburg milk. In Seeham, I dared a swim in the chilly lake – refreshing, to say the least! Although we encountered road closure signs near the Salzach, fellow cyclists showed us a way around, and we were grateful not to backtrack. We eventually reached Salzburg via the scenic detour.

After dropping off our bikes at the Fourside Hotel, we used the free public transport ticket provided at reception to return to the Mercure Hotel, where we had booked one extra night. For our final dinner, we chose the Taj Mahal restaurant. Marin had baked lamb, and I had lentil soup and chicken tikka masala – all delicious, served in a cozy, welcoming setting.

After five days, approx. 280 kilometers, and countless memories, we were happily exhausted and ready to rest.

 

Find the matching tour to this wonderful travel story here: Salzburg to the fullest / 5-Days 10 Lakes

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